Higher and higher, day by day, to a point where the body craves oxygen. Our excellent G2G Adventure guides ensured our health by taking daily saturation readings after dinner with a pulse oximeter. Saturation reading can be compared to your favorite subject at school, where you expected to get the highest test and exam marks out of a 100%. Saturation should be in the high nineties as it measures the oxygen levels in the blood. Oxygen decreases with elevation gain. Thankfully our saturation levels were consistently high and even ended up being a lighthearted competition to see who can relax and breath slower and deeper to change the oxymeter readings to win.
With full stomachs, chapati (pancakes), omelet, and milo, we started the day's hike from Karanga camp. Kilimanjaro mountain had become less shy and ever so beautiful, with the surrounding white glaciers now clearly beckoning us to come closer.
The hike, starting at an altitude of 3963 meters at Karanga camp, took us past the hustle and bustle of the base camp, Barafu, at an altitude of 4640 meters. The road is a trek across desolate terrain. With little to no vegetation across the scree slopes, we walked one foot in front of the other ever upwards for 3 kilometers which took us 3 hours to cover.
Hydration is crucial, and taking regular sips of water helps in combating altitude sickness. We carried 1.5 to 2 liters of water, provided by our G2G Adventure porters, who often walked back and forth at the higher altitude camps ensuring the team and we had enough water for cooking, drinking, washing, and cleaning. No water sources can be found above Karanga camp, and porters had to take the load up to the camp and then go back to Karanga camp to gather water and return it to where we camped. Walking on Kilimanjaro's soil instilled a deep appreciation of life-sustaining gifts like water, quickly becoming an expectation. Water must just flow out of the tap with a short turn with the hand—no carrying water over kilometers at altitude.
Reaching Barafu, the base camp, reminded me of a small town with hundreds of tents and people. Eager hikers were preparing for their summit attempt. Some hikers even enjoyed the luxury of a generator providing air-conditioned comfort in their tents and dining area.
We didn't spend much time at Barafu, simply taking a nature break in one tourist long drop. Retha-Mari handed me a "buff" to cover my nose, and I tried to squat with tired Quadricep muscles. I can echo that I have learned to appreciate what I often take for granted. I can also advise you, in planning to climb the highest peak in Africa, that you ask your traveling company to hire a portable toilet. Your own place of sanity and serenity with an extra porter traveling with the team to carry the portable toilet and the cover tent will cost you, but it is worth it. The porter carrying our sanctuary deserves the utmost respect, and we tried our best to show our appreciation. The porter sought the most level area to pitch the overarching tent and provided water for flushing—enough about toilets. Let's continue sharing that we didn't camp at Barafu camp but continued.
Our G2G Adventure owner secured a permit for us to camp at High camp "Kosovo" camp, 200 meters closer to Uhuru peak and away from Barafu camp. The rock face we climbed as we left Barafu was a challenge, and we were most grateful not to climb this section in the dark.
Kosovo, a serene and quieter camp, is situated at 4876 meters altitude, and walking to High camp saved us substantial distance and time during our summit attempt. The views looking back to Barafu, were spectacular, literally breathtaking. At Kosovo, we washed and enjoyed popcorn and tea, after which we tried to rest.
Day 5 on Kilimanjaro is unique for one reason. It was the day with little sleep, as we woke up at 23:00, after a short rest period, to start the summit attempt.
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